Range: True to its name, this species has one of the largest native ranges of the milkweed varieties, and can be found in thirty-nine of the fifty states across four of the five regions. 

Endangered Status:  Very common/Not of concern

Preferred Habitat/growing conditions: Medium to fine sandy, clayey, or rocky calcareous soils. Also found in well-drained loamy soils. Needs to be planted in an area with direct sunlight. 

Bloom Times: Jun – Aug

Characteristics and Identification:

• Color: White or Purple
• Average Height: ~ 5 feet
• Leaf Characteristics:
  • 6-8 inches long and 2-3.6 inches wide
  • Arrangement: Opposite
  • Shape: Elliptic, Lanceolate, Oblong, Ovate (long, roundish, and comes to a point)
• Flower Cluster: Umbel (all the individual flower stalks arise in a cluster at the top of the central stalk and are of about equal length)

Range: Similar to the Common Milkweed, this species has a wide range that covers most of the United States and Canada.

Endangered Status: Common/Not of Concern

Preferred Habitat/growing conditions: Moist, medium to wet clay soil. Can tolerate acidic soil. True to its name, it thrives in ponds and swamps.

Bloom Times: May – Sept

Characteristics and Identification:

• Color: Orange, Yellow
• Height: ~1-2 feet
• Leafs: 2-4 in long and 1-2 cm wide
  • Arrangement: Alternate
  • Shape: Lanceolate, Linear, Oblong
• Flower Cluster: Umbel (all the individual flower stalks arise in a cluster at the top of the central stalk and are of about equal length)

Range: Another common species, it can be found in all of the Northeastern states. However, finding them in the wild is becoming increasingly rare.

Endangered Status: Endangered in NH. Possibly “extinct” in ME. Threatened in VT, RI, and NY

Preferred Habitat/growing conditions: Prefers well-drained sandy soils. Tolerates drought. Requires a lot of sunlight.

Bloom Times: May – Sept 

Characteristics and Identification:

• Color: Orange, Yellow
• Height: ~1-2 feet
• Leafs: 2-4 in long and 1-2 cm wide
  • Arrangement: Alternate
  • Shape: Lanceolate, Linear, Oblong
• Flower Cluster: Umbel (all the individual flower stalks arise in a cluster at the top of the central stalk and are of about equal length)

Range: This species is native to all Northeastern states except Maine and New Hampshire. Finding one of these plants in the wild is rare.

Endangered Status: Threatened in MA, RI, PA, NJ, VT, and NY

Bloom Times: May – Sept

Characteristics and Identification:

• Color: White, Green
• Height: 2-3 feet
• Leafs: 2-3 inches long and 1.5 cm wide
  • Arrangement: Whorled (arranged in a ring around the stalk) 
  • Shape: Linear (longer than it is wide, and straight) 
• Flower Cluster: Umbel (all the individual flower stalks arise in a cluster at the top of the central stalk and are of about equal length)

Range: This species’ native range is limited, encompassing only the upper half of the Midwestern states and the Northeast.

Endangered Status: Not of Concern

Preferred Habitat/growing conditions: Moist, loamy soil with high organic content. Prefers partial shade.

Bloom Times: May – Aug

Characteristics and Identification:

• Color: White, Pink, Green
• Height: 2-6 feet
• Leafs: 2-10 in long and 1-4 in wide
  • Arrangement: Opposite 
  • Shape: Elliptic, Lanceolate, Ovate
• Flower Cluster: Umbel (all the individual flower stalks arise in a cluster at the top of the central stalk and are of about equal length)

Range: This species has a broad native range and is found throughout the eastern half of the United States, except Vermont. Finding one in the wild is rare in some states.

Endangered Status: Endangered in Mass, no existing wild populations in RI.

Preferred Habitat/growing conditions: It can thrive in a variety of soils, as long as they are partially sandy and well draining. It prefers partial sun. 

Bloom Times: May – Jul

Characteristics and Identification:

• Color: Purple, Red
• Height: 3-4 feet
• Leafs: 4-8 inches long and 2-3 inches wide
  • Arraingement: Opposite
  • Shape: Elliptic, Oblong
• Flower Cluster: Umbel (all the individual flower stalks arise in a cluster at the top of the central stalk and are of about equal length)

Range: Found across the Northeast, although it is rare or endangered in certain states.

Endangered Status: Threatened in NH and RI.

Preferred Habitat/growing conditions: Moist sandy or loamy soil. Prefers partial sunlight. 

Bloom Times: May – Jul

Characteristics and Identification:

• Color: White, Light Pink
• Height: 1-3 feet
• Leafs: 1 to 6 inches long and 2.4 inches wide
  • Arrangement: Opposite and Whorled. (four leaves opposite each other in a ring around the stalk)
  • Shape: Elliptic, Lanceolate, Ovate
• Flower Cluster: Umbel (all the individual flower stalks arise in a cluster at the top of the central stalk and are of about equal length)

Range: This species is found in almost all Northeastern states, except Maine, Rhode Island, New Hampshire, and Vermont.

Endangered Status: Endangered in CT, NY, PA.

Preferred Habitat/growing conditions: Well-draining sandy or rocky soil. Prefers partial shade.

Bloom Times: May – Jul

Characteristics and Identification:

• Color: White, Purple
• Height: 1-4 feet
• Leafs: 2-6 in long and 1/2-3 in wide
  • Arrangement: Opposite 
  • Shape: Oval to broadly oblong-elliptic
• Flower Cluster: Umbel (all the individual flower stalks arise in a cluster at the top of the central stalk and are of about equal length)

Black and Pale Swallow-worts are invasive species of milkweed introduced into the U.S. in the 1800s as decorative plants. Unlike other milkweed species, they contain undigestible toxins that are deadly to Monarch caterpillars: tylophorine and Antoine. These fast-growing vines can quickly spread and overwhelm garden spaces.

Characteristics:

• Color: Black Swallow-wort have dark blackish-purple flowers. Pale Swallow-wort have light pink to maroon flowers. 
• Height: Up to 7 feet tall. 
• Leafs: Elliptic.  
  • Arrangement: Opposite. 
• Flowers: The flowers are flat and star-shaped, with five points that merge at the center.

Tropical milkweed is an invasive species native to the Caribbean, South America, Central America, and Mexico. This species thrives in tropical conditions and is most commonly found in Florida, Hawaii, and California. This species is not toxic to Monarch butterflies, but it has a higher chance of containing parasites and other diseases

Characteristics:

• Color: The flowers are vibrant red, with orange or yellow interior colors. There is also an all-yellow cultivar. 
• Height: Up to 4 feet. 
• Leafs: Lanceolate
  • Arrangement: Opposite 
• Flowers: The flowers are tubular, with five sepals and five lobes

Characteristics:

• Color: Soft lavender to pinkish-purple
• Bloom Times: Mid to late summer
• Leaf Type: Lance-shaped to ovate
  • Arrangement: Opposite
• Flowers: Tubular, two-lipped flowers clustered in rounded heads
• Soil and Sun: Prefers well-drained soil; tolerant of dry conditions once established. Prefers full sun.

Characteristics:

• Color: Vivid purple to violet petals with a bright yellow center
• Bloom Times: Late summer to fall
• Leaf Type: Lanceolate
  • Arrangement: Alternate
• Flowers: Daisy-like flower heads with many narrow petals
• Soil and Sun: refers moist, well-drained soil but is adaptable to various conditions. Preferes full sun.

Characteristics:

• Color: Soft pink to pale purple (occasionally white)
• Bloom Times: August to October)
• Leaf Type: Lanceolate
  • Arrangement: Opposite
• Flowers: Tubular, two-lipped flowers arranged in dense vertical spikes
• Soil and Sun: Moist, well-drained soil is ideal. Prefers partial shade.

Characteristics:

• Color: Bright golden-yellow
• Bloom Times: August to October
• Leaf Type: Lanceolate
  • Arrangement: Alternate
• Flowers: Tiny, daisy-like flowers in dense, arching panicles at the top of the plant
• Soil and Sun: Adaptable to a wide range of soils — prefers well-drained, average soil. Prefers full sun, but tolarates partial.

Ants are categorized as opportunists, meaning they can adapt and thrive in most environments. They will likely be found in urban gardens. Monarch larvae are an easy food source for them, as they have not had the opportunity to sequester high levels of cardenolides (toxins) into their bodies. Ants will be particularly aggressive towards larvae and caterpillars due to their unique feeding system. A scout ant will search for suitable food, and once it has located a source, it will leave a pheromone trail back to the colony. A small army of ants will follow this trail back to the food source, systematically kill the defenseless larvae, and carry them back to the colony, leaving no trace of the newborns.

Given the amount of food available in gardens, a small colony of ants is likely to grow into an infestation. Therefore, it’s essential to monitor their populations closely. When removing infestations, avoid using pesticides, as they may inadvertently harm Monarch larvae and caterpillars. Listed below are some standard, insecticide-free methods of exterminating ants from your garden.

• Poison: Introducing poison to an ant colony differs from using pesticides to remove them. In this method, you should put ant poison on a food source, like a piece of bread, and leave it outside the colony. The ants will bring this back into the nest, and the poison will do the rest.

• Borax and sugar mixture: This is a true-and-tried method. It involves mixing borax powder with sugar and sprinkling it around the colony opening. Borax is poisonous and undetectable by ants, and they will be drawn in purely by the sugar.

• Diatomaceous Earth: Diatomaceous Earth is a fine white powder made from the fossilized remains of tiny, aquatic organisms called diatoms. When anthropods, such as ants, walk over this substance, it penetrates the exoskeleton and dries them out from the inside. You should sprinkle this substance around the colony opening. 

• Boiling Water: If you’re looking for a quick and cheap solution, just pour boiling water into the nest. This will kill a majority of the population without eliminating the colony.

• Plant Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare): Tansy, while not a native plant, is commonly found in gardens across the United States. This species will attract pollinators and repel unwanted guests. The plant contains a toxic compound called thujone, which is poisonous to ants; its smell also serves as a repellent. These should be planted near milkweed plants for the most productive results. 

There is only one species of mantis that is native to the Northeast, the Carolina mantis (Stagmomantis carolina), and there are two invasive species you will likely encounter as well: Chinese mantis (Tenodera sinensis) and the European mantis (Mantis religiosa).

These species are opportunistic, meaning they exploit any available food resource to survive. This includes Monarchs at all stages of development: larvae, caterpillars, and adults. However, this species is generally not a severe threat to Monarch populations. Due to their territorial nature, they often kill other mantises, taking care of the problem for you. If you encounter a mantis in your garden, it’s best to leave it where it is or relocate it to a different area away from your milkweed plants. However, the invasive Chinese species should be eradicated by simply squishing them. Below is a simple guide on how to identify mantis species.

Carolina mantis (Stagmomantis carolina):
Characteristics:

• Color: They come in a variety of colors, including grey, green, and brown. Each color variation can be plain, with stripes or bands, or withspots.
• Sexual Dimorphism:
  • Size: Females and males differ in size, with females reaching a maximum length of 3 inches. The males are usually a few centimeters to an inch smaller. 
  • Wings: Males have longer wings that reach past their abdomens, which allows them to fly. The wings on females do not get to this length, and they are unable to fly. 
  • Abdomen Size: Females tend to have larger, bulkier abdomens, while males generally do not.
• Leg Spots: They do not have a spot between their front legs.
• Faceplate: The faceplate is short and rectangular.

Chinese mantis (Tenodera sinensis)

Characteristics:

• Color: Green or brown. They lack the spots, bands, and stripes found in the Carolina Mantis, but will come in a distinct color variation in which the body will be brown and the wings green. 
• Sexual Dimorphism:
  • Size: Females can reach up to 5 inches long, while males only reach up to 3 inches. They are the largest species of mantis found in the United States. 
  • Wings: Males have longer wings that reach past their abdomens, which allows them to fly. The wings on females do not get to this length, and they are unable to fly.
  • Abdomen Size: Females tend to have larger, bulkier abdomens, while males generally do not. 
• Leg Spots: They do not have a spot between their front legs. 
• Faceplate: The faceplate is longer and square.

European mantis (Mantis religiosa):

Characteristics:

• Color: Green, brown, or yellow. 
• Sexual Dimorphism:
  • Size: Females can reach lengths of up to 3 inches, while males typically grow to only 2.5 inches. The males also have bigger eyes and longer antennae. 
  • Wings: Both males and females typically have wings that extend beyond their bodies, allowing both to fly. 
  • Abdomen Size: Females tend to have larger, bulkier abdomens, while males generally do not. 
• Leg Spots: They do have bullseye-like spots between their front legs.
• Faceplate: Triangular and rounder than the Chinese or Carolina mantids.

Wasps and Hornets are similar creatures; hornets are a type of wasp, along with Mud Daubers and Yellowjackets. Numerous species of both are native to the northeastern United States. The main difference between the two is that wasps are not generally carnivorous, as many feed on nectar and collect flesh to feed their offspring. Hornets, on the other hand, are primarily carnivorous. These little predators are of most concern in urban areas, as there are an abundance of available hideaways to create their nests and plenty of food sources. While they are good pollinators, they pose a danger not only to Monarchs but also to people. Generally, it’s better to remove them from your garden, regardless of the species or type. Several species of parasitic wasps will be discussed in a later section.

Nest Identification

Hornets make larger, tear-shaped nests that often resemble layered cardboard and can hold up to three to four hundred individuals. These can be found in high places, such as on roof awnings and in trees. Wasps, such as the common paper wasp, can be equally aggressive, so the same level of caution should be used when approaching. These nests are significantly smaller, not enclosed, and can resemble honeycomb. They are highly aggressive, so you should take heavy precautions when removing their nests. Luckily, most species of wasp can be dealt with in the same manner. Mud Daubers make their nests underground, and a professional should be called to remove them.

Fill a bucket about three-quarters full with water and add a dime-sized amount of dish soap. Attach a piece of meat to a board and place it a few inches above the water. Hornets will always launch straight upward when flying, so they will fly directly into the water and drown when they are done eating. You can approach the nest when a good portion of the hornets/wasps are in the bucket. You can either use a spray, which should be applied straight into the nest opening, or slowly approach the nest and place it into a bag, where you are free to destroy it.

Spiders are common almost everywhere and are generally not a species to be concerned with; instead, they play a crucial role in controlling other pests. It’s best not to remove them unless they pose a harm to pets or household members. Under certain conditions, however, their populations can grow into infestations. 

The best way to prevent infestations is to maintain a tidy garden, free of debris that could act as hideaways. You could also plant flowers with strong odors that act as repellents, like lavender and eucalyptus. Mint is also an option, but it is strongly discouraged due to its ability to rapidly spread and take over gardens.

Despite their small and unassuming appearance, ladybugs are quite effective predators. Ladybugs will typically prey on Monarchs while they are still in their larval form, before they can sequester cardenolides. However, Monarch larvae are not their main prey; they are only victims of unfortunate circumstances. A ladybug’s preferred food is aphids, which are typically found alongside Monarch larvae on milkweed plants. Oleander aphids (Aphis nerii), or Milkweed Aphids, are small, bright yellow insects that feed on milkweed plants; they are not harmful to the plant or the Monarch larvae/caterpillars. Ladybugs are usually not a species to be concerned about. However, they are prone to overpopulation and infestation. 

The best way to avoid having ladybugs decimate your Monarch larvae is not to remove the Milkweed Aphids. Biodiversity is key in all circumstances, and having a variety of species to choose from makes it less likely that ladybugs will choose to prey on Monarch larvae. If there is a ladybug infestation, you will notice. They tend to gather in large swarms within buildings, in which case you should vacuum them. To prevent them from overtaking your garden, you should plant flowers with insect-repelling odors like mums, lavender, and marigolds.  

The Large Milkweed Bug (Oncopeltus fasciatus) is an herbivorous species that, true to its name, preys on milkweed seeds. But, they are opportunists by nature and sometimes feed on Monarch larvae and eggs. They feed by injecting their saliva into seeds, which predigests and liquifies the innards, which is then sucked out using their straw like tongues (rostrums). They are identifiable by their distinct orange and black colorations that is found in adults and juveniles.

Like Monarchs, this species is migratory and will follow the growth path of milkweed over the course of multiple generations; their arrival varies depending on region, temperature, and abundance. 

This species is more of a nuisance than an actual threat, and unless there is an infestation, there is no real need to remove them. In the case of an infestation, avoid using insecticides; instead, gently shake them off into a container of soapy water. It’s also best to maintain a tidy garden, removing leaf litter and debris to decrease the potential for them to overwinter in your garden.

If you live in an urban environment, especially around college/university campuses, where food is plentiful, you will encounter mice and rats. Luckily, rats prefer larger prey and will not go after your Monarchs or milkweed plants. Mice, on the other hand, will occasionally prey on adult monarchs during their migration periods. While many mice avoid eating Monarchs due to their bad taste, the Deer Mouse (Peromyscus maniculatus)occasionally preys on grounded Monarchs. These mice have evolved a similar resistance to cardenolides, a cardiovascular toxin that causes increased cardiovascular activity, as Monarch butterflies. This resistance allows them to consume Monarchs without experiencing the adverse effects of the toxin. 

Having a few mice in your garden is not a concern; however, they breed rapidly throughout the year, which can quickly lead to infestations. The best way to avoid overpopulation in your garden is to keep it tidy, clearing leaf litter and large debris that could act as breeding and nesting grounds. The best way to reduce their populations is similar to methods of removing wasps; using a bucket and additional ground traps.

The Bucket Trap: 

Take a bucket and either leave it empty (if you plan to relocate the mouse) or fill it halfway with water (for a lethal trap).

1. Drill two small holes near the rim of the bucket, directly across from each other.
2. Run a sturdy wire or strong string through the holes to create a support across the top of the bucket.
3. Attach a flat, lightweight surface—such as a piece of wood or a paper plate (cans also work)—to the wire so that it rests halfway over the bucket. One side should be anchored to the rim so it stays in place, while the other side should hang freely over the center of the bucket, able to tilt or flip under weight.
4. Smear a small amount of peanut butter on the edge of the free-hanging side to act as bait.
5. Position a stick, wooden slat, or any sturdy object as a ramp, leaning from the floor to the top of the bucket to give the mouse easy access.

When the mouse climbs the ramp and walks onto the baited platform, its weight will tip the loose end, causing it to fall into the bucket. There are a lot of methods to create this trap, and they all work similarly; use what you have on hand, or you can buy one of these traps online.

If you’re lucky, your garden will attract anoles or small lizards. For the most part, heavily urbanized areas in the Northeast are unsuitable habitats for anoles, mainly due to the lack of water, suitable breeding grounds, and cold weather. But areas with more undeveloped and overgrown areas, like school campuses, are more likely to attract them. These creatures are becoming increasingly rare, and are effective and natural pest controllers, so it’s not recommended to exterminate them. Instead, if they pose an issue in your garden, it’s best to relocate them. 

Some lizard species native to the Northeast United States have a resistance to cardenolides, allowing them to ingest adult Monarchs and caterpillars.

Five-Lined Skink (Plestiodon fasciatus): 

• Characteristics:
  • Size: Between 5-8 inches 
  • Color: Colors can vary depending on age. Young skinks will have five distinct lines that run vertically down their bodies, vibrant blue tails, and black bodies. Their strips will become duller with age, and their tails will fade to a grayish hue. Stripe colorations of adult males will change to a dark green or brown, fading into their dark bodies. During mating season, males will also develop bright orange colorations around their mouths. 
• Native Range: All Northeast states, except Maine, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire. 
• Endangered Status: Endangered in Vermont, threatened in Connecticut, and of great concern in the other nine Northeast states.

This den is located in Canada, as Garter Snakes will travel there in the hundreds of thousands to breed.

Snakes are another uncommon species in urban environments, and they are more likely to be found in campus gardens with more open spaces. A snake or two in your garden can be beneficial. Aside from being an adorable feature, they are also excellent at pest control, keeping away unwanted lizards, rodents, birds, and insects. 

Multiple species of snakes found in the Northeast include insects in their diets; these snakes will likely be small, slender, and do not pose a danger to humans. Many of these species are also communal, meaning they will coexist within the same territory and share the same den. Their populations can grow rapidly under certain conditions, such as food availability and temperature. The best way to avoid a slithery guest is to keep a tidy garden, removing debris, tall grasses, and open water sources. 

The most common species likely to be found in urban gardens are listed below.

Common Garter Snake (Thamnophis sirtalis):

This snake species commonly eats Monarch adults and caterpillars, as they are resistant to the toxin found in their bodies.  

Characteristics: 

• Size: Up to 36 inches.
• Coloration: Black, gray, green, or brown, with three vibrant yellow stripes running along the length of their bodies. These stripes can occasionally be white or green. Certain subspecies will have red spots along their sides. 
• Sexual Dimorphism: Females are larger, with longer tails. 
• Other Characteristics: Their head circumference is larger than that of their body, and their scales have a slight lift at the end. 

• Native Range: They are found in all U.S. regions, except the southwest.
• Endangered Status: Very common

Eastern Smooth Green Snake (Opheodrys vernalis):

While not resistant to Monarch toxins, they occasionally prey on Monarch adults, caterpillars, and larvae. 

Characteristics:

• Size: 14-20 inches
• Coloration: Bright green on the top of their bodies, and a light yellow on the underbelly. 
• Sexual Dimorphism: Females are larger and have longer tails. 
• Other Characteristics: They have smooth scales that are tight against the body. The head is slightly smaller than the body. 

• Native Range: All Northeastern states and some of the Midwest. 
• Endangered Status: Very common.

Frogs are known for their voracious appetite for insects, and Monarchs of all stages are no exception. Luckily, while they have their place in a frog’s diet, many find them unappetizing due to their body toxins. 

The presence of frogs is often an indicator of a healthy and thriving garden, and they are an excellent and natural pest control method. And, to make matters better, it’s unlikely that infestation or overpopulation will occur naturally, as the survival rate of tadpoles is typically relatively low. However, they are still natural predators of Monarchs, and it is important to recognize the most common species. 

Northern Leopard Frog (Lithobates pipiens):

Characteristics:

• Size: 2-3 inches long. 
• Coloration: Green, brown, or yellowish-green, with a white underbelly and dorsal stripes, and brown spots. 
• Sexual Dimorphism: Females are larger. During mating season, males will develop enlarged vocal pouches and enlarged thumbs. 

• Native Range: Found across all Northern regions. They tend to stay close to their birthplace, so if your garden is located in a heavily urbanized area without bodies of water, it is unlikely you will encounter them.
• Endangered Status: Not of concern.

Wood Frog (Lithobates sylvaticus)

Characteristics:

• Size: 1.5-3 inches long. 
• Coloration: Brown, red, gray, or a combination of each. The females tend to have brighter variations.
• Sexual Dimorphism: The females are larger on average.  

• Native Range: They are native to the Northeast and Canada. 
• Endangered Status: Not of concern. 

Northeastern Green Frog (Lithobates clamitans melanota):

Characteristics:

• Size: 2-3.5 inches in length
• Coloration: Green or brownish-green, with black or brown spots. These spots will appear in a gradient beginning from the upper body and becoming more vivid toward the legs. There is also a rare blue/turquoise variation. 
• Sexual Dimorphism: The females are larger, and the males have larger ears (the circles on the side of the head). 

• Native Range: Upper Northeast and Midwest regions. 
• Endangered Status: Not of concern. 

Many species of birds will avoid eating Monarchs, repelled by their aggressive coloration and toxins. You should not worry about having them around your milkweed plants. It’s also not recommended to remove them, as they are essential predators and can reduce harmful insects in your garden.

This species, often shortened to O.E., is a single-celled parasitic protozoan. This is the most common Monarch pathogen in the Northeast. This pathogen spreads through spores transferred from female Monarchs to eggs and milkweed leaves during oviposition. While this pathogen is always lethal, the female only has to live long enough to produce eggs. When spread to eggs and leaves, the spores are dormant and do not begin to infect until larvae and caterpillars digest them. Digestion allows the spores to break open, and the parasites continue to reproduce asexually until the caterpillar forms its chrysalis. At this stage, they will begin to reproduce sexually, and spores will start to form on the outside of their body. Monarchs will emerge infected, usually with noticeable spores and deformities, and the process will begin again. 

The best way to prevent the spread is to plant native species, which are perennial and die back during the winter months, only to regrow without spores attached. And if you notice a Monarch adult or caterpillar with any deformities, it should be removed immediately. 

 Nuclear polyhedrosis virus, also known as black death, is a highly infectious and fatal virus that affects Monarch caterpillars and chrysalises. When infected, a caterpillar will become lethargic, darken in color, and begin to liquify. This liquid will leak out of the body and onto milkweed leaves, where healthy caterpillars will consume the virus cells, continuing the cycle. It can also be spread through defecation.

The best way to prevent this virus from decimating your monarchs is to immediately dispose of dead infected caterpillars, which are best identified by their black and deflated appearance. Surrounding leaves should be cut, and, unfortunately, surrounding eggs and larvae should be disposed of.  

This bacterium usually impacts caterpillars and larvae that are already infected with other diseases. It has similar effects to NPV, in which the caterpillar turns black and leaks fluid. It thrives in moist environments, so it’s important not to overwater your garden and maintain good airflow to allow evaporation.